12 MUST-SEE BUILDINGS IN DOWNTOWN CAIRO Downtown Cairo is full of hidden gems that are often bypassed by visitors. Here are my top picks for must-see architecture and historic buildings. When you think of downtown Cairo, you may picture tall oriental arches, minarets and alleys packed with people, noise and spices. This is indeed what Khan el Khalili looks like. But for many tourists, it’s the first and last stop in this enormous city before moving on to Giza. Egyptians and expats, on the other hand, go into downtown for business. And on weekends, the heart of Cairo isn’t the hangout it used to be in the 1960s and 70s. Many prefer to unwind in the quieter suburbs, shopping centers or sporting clubs. Downtown is seen as crowded, hectic and noisy. And it can take hours of traffic jams to navigate. But these days, it’s making a comeback. Downtown is seeing a revival from cultural events like D-Caf hosted in once-neglected spaces to trendy cafes that are drawing in younger ...

Islamic Cairo is great for exploring off the beaten path. Mamluk sultans once rode in elaborate processions from their palace at the Citadel to the older Fatimid city of  al-Qahira  down Al-Darb Al-Ahmar (Red Road). Dignitaries competed by building monuments to embellish the road. Ottoman ruler Muhammad Ali Pasha later gave his top military officers plots of land in the district, where they built splendid mansions and palaces. But when Khedive Ismail moved the seat of power in the 1860s from the Citadel to Abdeen Palace, Islamic Cairo’s 700-year-old history finally began to decline. It was no longer the choice residence of Cairo elites. The modern day Islamic Cairo it is now a working-class neighborhood known for workshops that make elaborate Ramadan lanters. And there’s  Khan Khayamia , where the Abbasids once commissioned house-sized tents. Today’s artisans sell quilted pillow cases and colorful applique wall hangings. The neighborhood teems with life. Fruit stands and ...