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House of the Cretan Woman – Gayer Anderson

There is a truly wonderful house in Cairo to which only a few lucky tourists find their way.  Most do so with no knowledge of the extra-ordinary people who lived in, and left this enchanting jewel behind.  The building – actually two buildings, is now owned by the Egyptian nation, having been left in trust to it by Major R.G. Gayer-Anderson Pasha.  How he came to live in the house is proof for me that we never miss the boat, that what we want will come to us, that it is not the big decisions we make that change our lives but the little ones. In 1906 R.G took a small decision to visit the 9th century mosque of Ahmed Ibn Tulun.  A pretty young Egyptian girl leaned out a mashrabeya (lattice) window of a beautiful old building he was gazing up at and invited him to see the house – he declined. On 23rd. Feb 1925 he took another small decision to revisit Ibn Talun.  The same old house was going through the final stages of restoration.  R.G. jus...

Bayt al-Kritliyya

  The House of the Cretan Woman: The House of the Cretan Woman, Bayt al-Kritliyya is an example of upper class medieval   Cairene tastes. The house is located in the southeast corner of the Ibn Tulun Mosque in   Sayeda Zainab and is now part of the Gayer Anderson House complex. The Gayer-Anderson House is actually made up of two 17th century houses stuck together. This   complex is named after a British major who lived in it and restored it earlier in the 20th century. He filled the house with French, English and oriental furniture and other fixtures.   The house has a large reception room with a balcony that overlooks it. The balcony is enclosed with a screen through which women of the harem could discreetly watch the male visitors below. The legends about this house are almost as intriguing as the house itself.  Inhabitants of the house were said to have had the blessings of the patron saint al-Hussein who was the grandson of Muhammad. Anoth...

The Ahmed Shawki Museum

Ahmed Shawki is a pivotal figure in Arabic literature. A poet of astonishing range and sensitivity, he was blessed with a good heart that earned him the love of thousands and patriotism that earned him the hatred of the British, who exiled him after the outbreak of World War One.   This museum was his home. It’s a beautiful building that he first acquired in 1914 and named ‘Karmet Ibn Hani’ in or Ibn Hani’s Vineyard, after the poet Abu Nawwas. Set in generous gardens, the white building is guarded by bronze cherubim and a bronze statue of   the poet, commissioned by the Italian government in 1962. The Mohamed Abdel Wahab Suite on the ground floor showcases many of the singer’s works – Abdel wahab was discovered and championed by Shawki.  For fans, there is an excellent audio library of his works.   Upstairs, you can see the poet’s bedroom and study. They have not changed since he was there, the antique furniture is all his. On the same floor is his wife’...

Alexandria Amphitheater (Kom el-Dikka)

Located in the heart of Alexandria, Kom el-Dikka is an extensive Roman theatrical and residential complex. It includes the only known Roman amphitheater in Egypt, an impressively well-preserved structure composed of thirteen terraces. This was constructed   in the traditional Greek style , with a flat stage in the center on the lowest level, and raised rows that ascend in steps surrounding three-quarters of the stage. The bench-style seats are all carved out of white or gray marble except for the first row, which is of red granite.   Visitors can see, if they look very closely, the remnants of Roman numerals chiseled into each row. The oldest part of the theater consisted of approximately sixteen or seventeen rows of seats, allowing for an audience of 700 to 800 people. It was eventually expanded to   include exclusive boxes on the highest level for the upper echelons of society. Current excavations at the edge of the site have uncovered Roman ...

Alexandria's Jewellery Museum

  The Jewellery Museum is a two-story villa which belonged to Princess Fatma Al-Zahraa - a member of the Egyptian Royal family, which she decorated to her taste in 1920. The foyer is a grandiose affair with burgundy   soft, deep carpets and carved, gilded ceilings. From here, a short number of marble steps lead to the first floor.   Portraits of all the royal descendants of the Mohamed Ali Dynasty (with a brief description) decorate the walls.   Very little information is known about the life and history of Princess Fatma with the exception of her evident extraordinary taste in interior decoration.   Very little information is known about the life and history of Princess Fatma with the exception of her evident extraordinary taste in interior decoration. The rooms of the two floors are filled to the brim with display boxes showcasing every kind of imaginable item of   status, luxury and wealth. The most important pieces in the collection...